Name: Pilsner Urquell

Price: 33 kč

Taste: 8

Smell: 5*

Bitterness: 7

Ease of drinking**: 10

Colour: 8,5

Average: 7,7

Note: 8,5 (Lolo)

Name: Gambrinus

Price: 27 kč

Taste: 7 / 6

Smell: 5*/5*

Bitterness: 6,5/6

Ease of drinking**: 8/5 (after 3beers)

Colour: 10/9,5

Average: 7,4/6,7

Note: 6,5/ 6(5) (Rys/Lolo)

Name: Krušovice - Mušketyr

Price: 11,0 (lahev) kč

Taste: 6 / 7

Smell: 6*/5*

Bitterness: 6,5/6

Ease of drinking**: 5/4 (after 4beers)

Colour: 5/5***

Average: 5,7/5,4

Note: 6/ 6 (Rys/Lolo)

Name: Pilsner (u Kalicha)

Price: 120 kč (1 litr)

Taste: 6,5 / 6,5

Smell: 5*/5*

Bitterness: 6/7

Ease of drinking**: 8,5/8 (after 4beers)

Colour: 7/6,5

Average: 6,6/6,6

Note: 7,5/ 8 (1!:P) (Rys/Lolo)

Name: Radegast Svetle Pivo

Price: 89 kč (lahev)

Taste: 6,5

Smell: 6

Bitterness: 6

Ease of drinking**: 8

Colour: 7

Average: 6,7

Note: 6 (Rys)

Name: Branik Svetly

Price: 7 kč (lahev)

Taste: 4,5

Smell: 6

Bitterness: 5

Ease of drinking**: 6

Colour: 6

Average: 4,4

Note: 4,5 (Rys)

*- it's not an optimal note because of the temperature of checked beer **- depends on the number of beers drunk before ;) ***-because of bottle

But our two heroes surely left train at Klodzko Glowny because otherwise they wouldn’t have an opportunity to remind few „latin“ words and do some „warm-up“ of our legs on the way to the bus station, which was just near „Klodzko Miasto“... [numbers: 9,76 zl for one-way student’s ticket, 1 zl tram’s ticket , 0,90zl „Napoleonka“ in Klodzko :-)].

The clock shows 1:40 pm and the bus of czech lines „Orlobus“ is ready to take us to Prague... The journey takes about 4 hours (including 1 hour in Poland, although with car you could reach the border even in 20 minutes) The border Kudowa Zdroj is rather symbollic because the guards let us feel amost as in „Schengen Zone“... through Zachód, Hradec Kralove, Podebradý, noticing worrying more and more raindrops at the windscreen we arrived to UAH Florenc in Prague at 5:45 pm... at the station was already waiting my friend – Helena who was not only a guide but also a host of us. After short instructions about buying and using „listký“ (tickets) for underground after 25 minutes the train stopped at Flora station where we - lazy changed to tram and took one „zastavka“ (stop) to finally sit on the sofa in „our“ flat at Kouřimska ulice... Shower, something to drink, pictures, talk... and Helča had to leave back to her home in Plžen, leaving us alone in Prague ...:-)

Still with metro tickets – what wouldn’t be so obvious later - we came to Mustek station (our favourite, because it was the fifth-last station which our ticket was valid for) – faithful to our travelling rule – that to get to know, you must feel it.. – we walked down on Vaclavska ulice – which during our first meal was temporary renamed to „Kabanosova“ :-). When our stomachs were half-full filled we decided to follow by multicultural crowd, beliving that it will take lead us to the centre. And that’s the fact – very quickly we found the town hall and the view known from the pictures became truth. After several minutes welcomed us Karluv Most (Charles‘ Bridge)... British, Spanish, Czech, Portuguese, Asians, Poles, and I bet much more people from other countries created the river on the bridge... the flower thrown near the bridge’s gate will soonely set sail on the second side... musicians, dancers, painters selling their arts and unforgettable view of Hradčany by night... that is only part of all things which hide behind the name Karluv most.

But what is coffee near Colloseum for Rome, the same is Czech beer near Karluv Most for Prague... and because the second rule of traveller is to eat and to drink only there were native-citizens do it... we found easily nice bar without foreigners.. and let „gold liquids“ to adopt us in Czech Republic. (look for: Pivo) At about 1am by tram, with good mood we came home and in the moment fell asleep... :-)

Second day – decided that this time we’ll get to know the city “with mind”, we have chosen few place to see…

First of all – described in every book-guide “Josefov” – the Jewish district with old cemetery, synagogues and pubs – but of course polish smart students forgot that Saturday is a holy, free day for Jews and entrance for every typical for this nation building is closed. So we got to know famous Josefov just from the outside – taking only few pictures of graves behind the wall… Maybe fortunately, because- as we got to know from Helča – the entrance fee was about 250 kc from each person – which seemed too much for two poor students from Poland ;)

But before we came to Josefov we did some shopping in the nearest shop (shopping- maybe in this case it doesn’t fill the definition of the word – “shopping”) and took some tram – probably number 11 which took us to the stop “Museum” – why the tram? Well.. after the first day we got to know on one side traveling without a ticket is possible and could let us save some money at least for one beer… but on second side – possibility of escape while ticket-controllers are trying to catch you, under the ground is a bit limited :P … So we have chosen old-well-known tram to travel at least at day :-)

We took several (this is an advantage of digital cameras - how much would we pay for traditional – analog pictures…) pictures in front of and from every side of Museum and decided to walk down of the city but avoiding main streets… we did our best… but the one who was in Prague knows very well that finally – however and anywhere you walk, you will finally get to the centre… So in this way we saw an Opera and other interesting buildings, ate ice-cream near the tower and finally got to some gate – which we know about only, that was founded by polish duke – Wladyslaw Jagiellonczyk and nearby sat down “horde” of young German tourists ;)

We got to described before Josefov and then got – quite known for students feeling of hungry… In mistake is the reader who thinks that suddenly we started looking for some restaurant… no no no... :-) Armed with salami and bought in the morning rolls we came to the “…” square where the main event was not our “late breakfast” but Folk Prague Festival… With all responsibility I can say now that in this way we ate with culture ;) Aaa... I forgot to add that the liquid which was our companion this time was non-alco Coca-Cola light… [ech commercials…] ;)

Although we didn’t want.. finally we came to our “beer-opener” Karluv Most :-) You can do your best… tell yourself “no more” but I suppose – there is no chance to avoid this bridge, this place during your day… But we just looked at… because this time our aim was to see as much as we can and to realize every point of our plan… and there left for Saturday still… “Dancing house” and “Hostinec u Kalicha” . The first point from the list was found quite easily – just near the river… with its shape seemed that an architect who designed such “Art” had quite hard night… or rather week before started drawing… One thing is sure – it became one of Prague’s symbols… The second point – “Hostinec u Kalicha” – it was a bit harder to find this place… but exploration was worth of it’s prize… Prize – and here I should mention few numbers… The average prize of Pilsner Urquell in every pub situated at least 20 meters from the main square costs from 27 till 35 Kc (about 1 €) but not at “u Kalicha”… this place is known as the most favourite place of famous “Švejk” -the only Czech soldier, who although was just imagined by Jaroslav Hašek hero- is recognized on all the world. The restaurant U Kalicha isn’t any special place… I would rather say that if we wouldn’t follow by the instructions and place described in the guide we would never chose such an ugly place to drink a beer… and for sure not to eat anything… Pivo u Kalicha (1 liter) costed 120kč and was the same as in every other pub… There was one more minus of this pub… that except one table – taken by Germans, all the restaurant’s customers were Poles… It didn’t satisfy us… but more disappointed was the manager of the restaurant who to show his frustration of “such life” told us that for 10 last days there were no Poles who ordered more than few beers… And it’s hard to believe that except Germans anyone took anything more than Pilsner… :P

But I can’t lie and must say that after such beer and such “rape” on our wallets we left the restaurant with very good mood and soon we came home. Last time when I fell asleep during the normal day… hard to remind… maybe 8 years ago… Ech this Prague… :-) At home we finished Salami and ate of course our favorite cans - which for the needs of this article we called “salmon”.

In the evening we again came to the centre – but this time our aim was to take couple of pictures of Prague by night… and we did it! How to not to love this city?!

P.S.

What’s more at night we went to one internet-café to check the schedule of buses back to Klodzko…and very good that we did it because in other way next day we would be waiting for the bus which wouldn’t come… For a second we felt weak and wanted to check what’s new in Poland but finally at the last moment we got back conscious and turned off computer :-)

We woke up quite late - maybe because few times Czech pigeons let me know about their existence at night… but later we both decided that the fault was on Finn side ;) Quickly ate “salmon” and we left our Vinohrady and quickly got to the centre… Sunday was destined for visiting Hrad (the castle), Zlata ulice (Gold Street) and few other nice places, which so far we didn’t meet. Just everyone who has ever traveled, knows very well that the best way of sight-seeing new places is to get lost there.

But I would cheat the readers if I wouldn’t mention one thing… After the visit in the “u Kalicha” restaurant our budget was a bit… limited. Well this sentence is not true – just our Czech money was finishing quite fast and the currency course offered by exchange points was on adverse conditions… But it’s not what’s the most important in here :-)

Soon we “climbed” to the castle which let us know what Franz Kafka, Alfons Mucha and Josef Švejk had to feel when they thought about Prague… While you have such a view … even the worst thing (I mean the gentile cold rain with wind) can’t change your mood… just you finally start taking deep breaths. Cathedral, churches, the Gold Street… there is hard to find any famous place where you don’t have to pay for the entrance – but it’s hard to wonder at this that Czechs are just trying to make money on everything…

After few hours spent at the castle, we went to see monastery and walked down to the city centre. On dinner was again “salmon” which somehow one of the symbols of Prague became. After such dinner we realized the obligatory point of every day and visited some pub… But no no, don’t think that we are drinkers… we were under the obligation to do it! Before we left Wroclaw we promised each other that one of the “fruits” of our visit in Prague will be beers classification [the results of our work you can see in the other article] . Sunday wasn’t a blessed day for us because few times it was given to feel that the rain in Poland doesn’t differ from the Czech one. All wet and tired of all day walking, we had no doubts - it’s the highest time to check Prague’s ticket controllers – so we went back home with underground. (Btw. Czech ticket controllers don’t work on Sunday – at least not on this Sunday ;] ) We rested, did some shopping (Czech salmon) for tomorrow’s journey and the last time went to the city centre by night. With big pity we said good-bye to Prague, to the Old town, to bridge, all small streets spread all around the main squares… People call Prague the Mother of Cities… but for us it just became one of Our Cities – the places where we will be always coming back :-)

This time we didn’t risk – well it will be hard to run with bags… and we bought tickets for the underground. Flora, Jiriho s Podebrad, … Muzeum, Hlavni Nadrazeni and finally Florenc… the majority of passengers was Polish – some skates, students… 4 hours of journey and we came to Klodzko. Poland… nothing special… there was even an option to come back to Prague because Pawel wasn’t sure if he has taken his keys which probably were left in Helena’s bathroom, but not… the dream disappeared and again we had to stand face to face with Polish reality. Klodzko – this time without Napoleonka (on Monday they don’t prepare them) we went to see famous fort – took pictures and came back to the town looking for some place to sit and eat… Not salmon anymore – it was some pizza with Polish “beer” (I used here inverted commas, because this word has completely different meaning that the ones drunk Prague). Wroclaw welcomed us with our well known afternoon’s traffic jams…

We came to Belgrade in the early morning – and although there was a possibility to sleep in the train – because just few people were going then – always when I fell asleep, either border control or ticket officer was waking me up and plucked me out from dreams… What I must admit now, to be consequent in further relation, although the night was very warm, the wagons had heating on.. many trials of turning that off came to naught.

We had this advantage, that weekend before Pieter and Johan went to the capital of Serbia, so we already knew the hostel where to spend the night. Actually this one (Green Studio Hostel –Karađorđeva str. 69) was excellent for a weekend trip. Located just near the train station, with nice rooms, free access to internet and friendly hosts for just €10 . As we came.. we went to recover in beds.

At about 11 am we went to the city. The first impression and memory from Belgrade was... the high temperature- relatively high to that what we got used to in colder Miskolc. 26 Celsius degrees and the blue sky... Perfect! We moved to the city centre – and here the first “obstacle” – the Marathon! All the capital full of runners, posters, spectators… it’s hard to believe that this city not so much time ago had tanks on the streets and citizens had to hide in cellars because of NATO attacks. The city is living! It is colorful, loud, crowded, but not like western plastic capitals, Belgrade has an atmosphere.. Slavic, Balkan.. unique.

Maybe one of the reasons, that my impression about Serbia is so good was that finally after 3 weeks of fighting with Hungarian language I could hear Slavic language and what’s more.. to understand that! :) People are very open and enthusiastic our Slavic roots make them more friendly. Of course you can notice that Balkan blood is more hot than relatively cold Polish or Lithuanian, but also that is kind of a myth.

What I would like to specially recommend to visit is : the Zemun district, the fortress and obligatory few churches – mainly Orthodox in the city. That Saturday in Orthodox church is analogue to Catholic Palms’ Sunday. Everywhere we looked, we were surrounded by people with small bells and wreaths. Unfortunately we didn’t manage to get to know what’s the origin of that symbols.

The evening brought me an unwanted surprise – the earache.. the result of opening windows in hot train. I got some dews in chemistry, but the pain was so unpleasant that after 2am I came back to the hostel, while Rambo and Tomek had good time in one of Belgrade’s crowded clubs.

Sunday – the recovery day.. almost without any pain (the Serbian mixtures make miracles :P ) but already with otitis… That day we went to Zemun - small, nice district on North - perfect for Sunday’s walk, jogging, rest… whatever you like. Sunday was hotter than yesterday so without any doubts we spend half of the day enjoying the sunshine, I mean - lying on bench or grass and watching... nature :) Late afternoon when our mind convinced the will to do something more, we moved back to the centre, to see skipped day before the “Belgrade’s Montmartre” . Skadarlija makes for bohemian quarter of Belgrade. Although short and curved, the street includes well-known restaurants, a hotel, of course art and antique galleries, and souvenir shops... Honestly speaking - sipping coffee in one of local gardens, listening to Serbian or gypsy music.. that’s one of the most remarkable attractions of Belgrade.

Our hostel was located quite close to the centre, so all the way around Budapest we took on foot. The first stop on the way to Buda was the trade hall. Taken like from pre-war album, building was full of colorful stalls and products, which seemed to scream “buy me, you won’t regret!”.Selling counters full of salami, paprika, products from all the regions… few raws further handmade beautiful dolls and table-cloths lots of sellers, lots of customers, lots of forints, very Budapestian :) With new – of course we weren’t assertive – purchase we moved further on to Buda. First stop – Castle in the rock. Everything was ok.. until I heard Poles, behaving like a herd of buffalo – later I got to know that this church, well actually a chapel had significant place in Polish history. The more we moved, the more hung(a)ry we were… but wonderful views of Budapest’s panorama was giving us more power. It was artificial feeling as we could get to know later. Next steps were taken to the castle, Fishers bastille and on.. I must admit that we were there on Saturday and all the time we were meeting just married couples walking, taking pictures in the Old Town. Willy-nilly we were recorded on few wedding video-tapes…

Tired – as later counted we walked several kilometers during that weekend – we decided to go to some of the famous baths… And here I would put a curtain of silence.. because as we got to know we have chosen, the wrong one.. very wrong.. bleh.. :P

In the evening we went to eat some traditional Hungarian meal – we agreed to take famous Pörkölt and we didn’t regret. After such a source of energy, legs lead us to Moulin Rouge club – really good décor – but the music… oj.. good that later in the other room the console was taken by Spanish DJ.. ;)

Sunday’s morning wasn’t painful. Well maybe because of that it began at 11 am ;) With big plans… and little pressure of time – we had to live in the evening – we moved on to Pest. Firstly to the synagogue- the biggest in Europe. Actually it was my first visit in synagogue… and probably the last one. Not because it wasn’t interesting.. but the Jewish lobbing really discourages to visit such places.

To have a contrast, we went to St.Istvan (Stephan) Basilic – huge temple, able to welcome 8,500 participants during the service. Beautiful baroque-décor made really big impression. Next few hours we wasted on trying to get to Parilament (all tickets were already distributed – E.U. citizens can enter for free) and to House of Terror – we were warned that it can be already closed. We didn’t think to long – and willing to wash off bad impression of the first bath, we went to the most famous – Gelert Bath. Shown in several films, complex of pools, saunas and thermal basins let us finally relax…

Travelling with Hungarian student’s card is really cheap, for roundtrip to Budapest we paid in total 2,300 HUF, while one night in hostel cost 2,500 Forints. What’s more, I advice everyone who’s going to Budapest, to book the hostel in advance. The city is very popular and although in internet you can find tens of hostels, during the weekend it’s almost impossible to find free place.

the whole article find at: bartekrys.yoyo.pl

When first time I looked at the schedule prepared for us by Miskolc professors, I couldn’t belive… The week full of activities – on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday lectures since 8am till 6pm, on Thursday and Friday – scientific excursions which always take all the day. Quite disappointed by organized courses in Germany, I was coming to Hungary with hopes that life will verify the theory and we will have some free time in Miskolc. So it happened - actually professors are very kind, so our timetable is quite flexible now. We shortened the breaks between classes, so now we are finishing even at 3-4pm. What’s more the excursion – although we had just two of them which cannot testify for all the time – are quite interesting and even if they take all the day, there is always some time for rest.

Miskolc in majority of guides is described as a dynamic, postindustrial city with beautiful center. And as one of our professors was saying ”right now… I would like to tell you – Wrong!”No because of accident, Miskolc is called “steel city” – several years ago local smelters and all economy was cumulated around heavy industry – mainly artillery. Hence this city has no center.. is no dynamic and in my opinion it’s even dying. Well of course, if you count opening new Lidl as a parameter which let you say that city is dynamic, then ok… But the truth is completely different. More and more people are leaving this city. The Miskolci Egyetem – part of the city where the campus is located is the only living part of this zone. Actually students who are leaving in dorms belonging to the campus look at this place as self-sufficient. Very rarely you can meet a group of students in the central part of the city, because in fact that one has no much to offer. Yesterday – exceptionally – we had free Thursday, so I decided to take a tour in the city-museums and galleries, which I saw from outside on the first day sight-seeing. I am conscious that if I would have any Hungarian language skills, maybe I would have other impression, but the first museum which I visited was very much advertised, but actually there was nothing what could pay my attention. I went out disappointed, but luckily entrance fee was only 300 forints (€1,16) so I didn’t regret too long ;) My second step was taken in the direction of the center – and here I must stop for a minute and explain you one thing. So-called center is actually spread along the longest street in Europe (6.3km) – which begins as Szechenyi street. There is no main square, as Rynek in Polish cities. Of course it’s possible to find interesting looking buildings, but always the good impression is taken out because of the surrounding. Almost near every nice monument, church, house – there are an old shabby, concrete blocks-of flats or chimneys. You can notice that someone, somehow wanted to rescue the old town, giving people a permission to buy old building, but only if they will renovate them. But it drove to terrible effect of colorful cocktail of buildings facades, which instead of encouraging to visit them, outright frighten away tourists and potential investors.

But Miskolc has also a second face – more natural, more friendly – places where the touch of urban revolution didn’t come yet, but everything is maintained in good condition exactly in that way how it should be. I am talking about Miskolc Tapolca – with very nice SPA and baths – and of course famous Diósgyőr with medival castle and Lillafüred – another holiday resort in Bukk mountains. Soon I will examine both of this places and tell you all the truth, but so far we are delighting by Hungarian wines – during the first excursion to Tokaji mountains, we were invited for degustation of Tokaji wine – in very special place, because in the geodetic central point of Europe ( I know there are at least dozen of such spread in whole Europe, but still they are proud of that). The result of 2 hours of degustation couldn’t be different – all of us continued trip with much better moods and with liquid luggage – each of us bought at least 5 litters of Tokaji.:)

Tomorrow we’re going for 2 days to Budapest – we are already holding Hungarian students’ id, so the trip will be relatively cheap… I will tell you, when I will be back.

Jó szerencset!

the whole article find at: bartekrys.yoyo.pl