Showing posts with label around the.... Show all posts
Showing posts with label around the.... Show all posts
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
6:37 PM | 
Posted by
Ryś |
On September 2010 mr R. together with mr C. decided to launch an inquiry into the Euro Cup preparations. Let's agree that it was the main reason of our last visit to Ukraine this year. Right away I want to stress that all the rumours that it was just the cheap way of getting "satisfied" are unfair, what does not mean that they are wrong ;)
To distance from the events which took part on Ukraine, I decided to take a break in writing - my laziness has nothing to deal with it, really :) Having our translator in Lviv we were hoping to conquer at least half of the country. While the map of our route looked incredible, it was impossible to be realised. At least our "guide" was insisting that there is no way to make it in just 6 days. Hence from the list of Lviv, Chernivtsi', Suceava, Kamianets-Podilskyi, Kiev, Tarnopil... we have decided to hit straight on the capital.
I have no clue if I mentioned that in my previous posts about Ukraine, but the best - what makes it the only reasonable - way to travel inside the country is the long-distance train. Prices are low as everything on Ukraine (except the HIV carriers ratio) so the cost does not make a problem. However that occurs when you really want to buy the tickets. Ukrainians are travelling a lot and the most interesting routes are popular not only among tourists. Getting ticket on the day of the departure in the full season is that possible as getting to the spaceflights program. I mean - you can make it if you are smart. In the first case very helpful might be President Lincoln , if you are about flying - you may need rather few Wilsons. Generally people on East like American Presidents and change their attitude when you are conscious about that. Impossible looses prefix.
Kiev - I always had prejudice towards to capitals. There are exceptions, but... OK. Kiev is mess. There is everything. Beautiful buildings, statues, views, women, fancy restaurants, cheap bars, rivers, hills... just it is always surrounded by an awful soviet or modern architecture. I agree, you can see that all around the world, but in Kiev that makes really bad impression. I don't know if you are familiar with events of winter 2004/2005. The Orange Revolution was the first time in my life where the political history of Europe has been written, I mean as a "full-member" of the EU state I was conscious what happens behind the eastern border. So visiting the Maidan Nezalezhnosti where that all took part was somehow going to be exciting. Nothing that wrong. I don't know what I was expecting, but what I've seen there just disappointed me. Five years after "birth of New Ukraine" - as we thought in 2005 - there was nothing what could tell you about that.
I don't want to complain about Kiev - perhaps it's a nice city, for sure has great clubs, you can nicely spend time there. I was just expecting much more.
Ternopil - we went there just because our Ukrainian friend advised that. City is smaller than others - a bit over 200,000 inhabitants, streets as streets, buildings does not cause sensation so let's go clubbing. Riverpool - club placed by the lake which seems to be a heart of the city - has probably the best djs in the country. Really if I could have my own jet, I'd be flying there for weekends. I think it was just before the workday but the club was full of gorgeous girls. The owners try to make it exclusive hence you can enter all the rooms without special cards, but still even higher prices than in any other club I partied on Ukraine, don't make you feel bad. One thing might - unthinkable case of entering club. I don't mean the selection, but the rule of scanning fingerprint. I understand, that it's a bit other world than behind the door but it doesn't make it JFK Airport.
Lviv - what to say, if everything has been written in the past? The city is slowly going through changes with regard to Euro... Right! I should tell about the preparations! Shortly - if western fans will be shocked coming to Poland, in Ukraine they will get a heart-attack. Look, Poland is 20 years now after the system transformation - it looks as it looks -the motorways seem to be too big challenge, trains have delays, there are still problems with commuting from airports, but at least your planes will land, you will get to every match on time, back to your hotel and have fun meanwhile. Now try to understand that Ukraine is 15 years behind Poland. All you need is just to be patient :)
That post is not a complain... it is just an observation. :)
Sunday, August 22, 2010
After Italy and short trip to Lviv comes a time to go to East again - for some visiting that country might be completly not interesting, but for me it is special. And not only because we are going to organise Euro Cup with them, but especially that I am still hungry for visiting Ukraine. Last year I spend almost two weeks, seeing the most touristic region - Crimea. This time I hope to spent about a week visiting the most important cities and regions of Western-Central Ukraine, including Kiev. As a bonus we will probably go to Romanian Bukovina. We are leaving on Tuesday's night from Wroclaw. If anyone is interested in joining us - let me know either in comments or @ social networks.UPDATE:
Leaving tonight at 1140 PM GMT+1 from Wro, then tomorrow night from Lviv to Kiev till Saturday, next.. who knows what will be next? :) Anyhow if some of you is in Ukraine-Crimea, Lviv - let's meet for "1715" ;)
Probable route underneath:
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Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Dziś w "Klubie Trójki" po godzinie 21 gościem będzie współczesny Phileas Fogg -mr Michael Palin. Pan, którego nie trzeba przedstawiać ;) Michael Palin w "Klubie" będzie opowiadał o swojej najnowszej książce "W 80 dni dookoła świata"
Oficjalna strona podróży Palina: http://www.palinstravels.com/
Link do transmisji audycji: http://www.polskieradio.pl/sluchaj/
Zapis audycji do pobrania tutaj.
Monday, May 3, 2010
Although last five months haven't been filled with journeys which usually drive me to write new posts in here, still some issues have risen. First and the most important fact is that I won't be able to graduate in the end of this semester. That's not a result of thesis's writing impotence, but my mistake in ECTS points management. Hence thesis defense has to be postponed to January 2011. That causes change in my traveling plans and almost sure is, that I won't go to South America in October this year. But every cloud has a silver lining therefore in the end of September I will go to Azerbaijan and Georgia instead. I am looking forward to see especially Sakartwelo which is tempting me for few years already.
To top it all also my internship applications had to be frozen because of duties to studying program, hence I will probably begin summer in some Polish open pit and then try to make fortune in Scandinavia ;)
After all I don't stop traveling. Just yesterday Sudety mountains gave me big lesson of respect to nature spanking me all the time while hiking on Snieznik. Still likely is that I will come on Thursday to Miskolc, Hungary, to celebrate Erasmus Reunion with my friends, just that will come clear in few days. What is certain - I am going to Bologne and Florence on May 21-24. Every good tips about visiting these cities and their neighborhood are more than welcome.
The regular visitors could also notice the changes at my website - since the first quarter of 2010 has doubled the last year's opening number I had to make it more professional;) For few next days page will be still under construction, so all the remarks and suggestions are appreciated.
In the end - due to variance of Mother's Day celebration's date in different countries I would like to wish in advance all the best to all moms visiting my website!
Saturday, March 6, 2010
How to determine Madrid? How to determine any capital? Definitely this is the worse place - without it's identity - because of hundreds of thousands of external and interial emigrants who mix into the societies excluding at the same time the original inhabitants, who prefer to move to the suburbs. But because of this mixture, capitals are the best cities to find your place.La Capital
Although in the previous post I wrote, that the best way to get to know the city is to get lost there, I must add and appendix - do not apply to metropolis. Madrid is big - over 600 km2. And apart from the centre there is nothing worth seeing. Because of unpredictable weather I decided to divide sight-seeing to 2 parts. Western Centre of Madrid - firstly squares, then the rest. Madrid as every capital is very possessive so also here you have to find something special and unique. That is - the centre of Spain... if just Spain, it's the centre of Iberian Peninsula! It is attractive indeed, you walk along arcaded galleries, visit shops, when suddenly someone starts shouting at you. Nothing strange, probably you just walked into the film set of some Spanish soap opera. Tourist, tourist and one more time Japanese, and where are Japanese, there are pictures and oddly dressed people. Hence at Plaza Mayor you can see marines, knights, don Kichot, spiderman and spiderpig. Better to not to get hungry in the neighborhood of Plaza de Mayor or Plaza de Sol to not to empty your wallet. Next stop - Royal Palace and Royal Gardens - Camp del Moro. Nice architecture of the buildings which are partly open for the visitors. If palace, then few steps to the South and you are in the Cathedral. Go further more and see the San Francesco del Grande Basilica, unless it's closed. Walk back to the Sol and visit Santa Ana Square - there you can get nice tapas. When power is regained, it's worth to walk alone the Gran Via - centre of theatre, cinemas, fancy and less fancy shops something what can give you a semblance of Madrid's spirit. The best time to visit Gran Via is an early evening (9pm), and no, not because of the young South-Americans looking for customers, but to visit one of the theatres where every day there is rush because of famous guests in the audience.
View Larger Map
Where to eat and drink? Unless you have local "guide" - at home. My guide was Angel - friend from Erasmus, who easily found places, where una cana with tapas costs less than 2 Euros and where for few hours you can remind old good times of Hungarian parties.
Then simply take a walk on Paseo del Prado - distant with several meters Museo Naval, Museo Thyssen count, that some of the tourist will visit them. But they have completly other aim... If The Garden of Earthly Delights, Las Meninas or La Inmaculada de Soult can be called the pearls of art, then Museo del Prado is a necklace holding these pearls. I used, that EU students can enter the Museum for free* and spent there 3.5 hours. And although I never paid attention on art classes, concentrated more on war with teacher, than on analysing paintings, even such amateur as me could recognise these great works.
* Always in every place in Spain ask for the student discounts and don't be dishearted if the ticket clerk doesn't understand you**, phrase "¿Hay descuentos para estudiantes?" was the most fluent sentence ever said by me in Spanish.
**And again I have to make a digression - the language and the knowledge of foreign languages. Generally Spanish people don't speak any other habla, than their own. You can try, may not belive, but it's really hard to find someone who speaks good English, German or any other language, that I speak. When you ask "¿Hablas ingles?" and the answer is "un poco" or any other sentence in Spanish, than it means "No!". Fortunatelly all my Spanish friends who I met in this country were dealing with the language very well, giving me good tips about communicating with other people. And of course it's a shame for me that still my Spanish is very poco - ¡Mi culpa!View Larger Map
After few hours of art-treatment it's worth to spend some time outside, hence go to Botanic garden or straight to Parque del Retiro - these royal gardens were exclusive for hundreds of years, now are just waiting for your visit. The park is huge, but one thing is worth a quest. It is the only in the world, public statue of the devil. Fallen angel is a part of the fountain - unfortunately rain kept me from finding that. There is one more place which man should see in this area - it's Atocha Train Station - even if -as I adviced in the previous post - you are not going anywhere with this mean of transport - visit the station. Jungle - that's the word.
Toledo
Two days are enough to see Madrid - if you live in place away by walking distance from Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, you can go there - for 15 Euros you can touch the grass of the pitch where Cristiano Ronaldo ridicules the defenders, sit on the bench where Jerzy Dudek passes the towels to his teammates or take a picture with wax statue of Di Stefano in the Museum of Real. The same 15 Euros you can also spend on 1.5 journey to Toledo. As a rugby player I can't admit that I like football, so I went to the former capital of Castilla.Short advice to Orzech - when the coach from Madrid arrives, don't go out of the station, just find the platform of city buses (no 5,61,62) and go to the last stop (Ciudad vieja) - ticket costs 95 Eurocents.When you arrive to the Old Town - go to the information point to get free map. And no, not to plan the route, but to see on the reverse which tourist attractions are open. Then you can calmly get lost. Old town of Toledo is like a picture from Cervantes's novels. Even though it's close to Madrid, the atmosphere is completly different. Even the Japanese tourists are different. Toledo is adorable - great place for romantic date and for calm retirement. I spend just 3 hours on sight-seeing and next 3 on visiting churches, museums and galleries. But one thing is very special...
When you get to one of the lookout towers everything stops, shops and Japanese disappear, you are transferred to XVI century when the town was in bloom. It's not Spain anymore, it's Castilla - time to conquer New World!
Al final, quiero agradecer a todos mis amigos que conocí durante mi viaje. ¡Muchas gracias!: Lolek, Erik, Ángel, Víctor, Tatiana, Patricia, Elena, Sergio, Elena, Anyi, Leo, Carla, Elena, Eva María y otros ...
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Friday, February 26, 2010
Spain? Country of craziness. Full of sex, love, fun, party and Sun. Place where once you can adore beauty of great sacral architecture, and other time you can get accidental sex offer during your bus trip. But more details...soon.
Finally I realised something, what years ago was described by Greek poet - Kavafis:
The City
You said:
"I'll go to another country, go to another shore,
find another city better than this one.
Whatever I try to do is fated to turn out wrong
and my heart -like something dead- lies buried.
How long can I let my mind moulder in this place?
Wherever I turn, wherever I look,
I see the black ruins of my life, here,
where I've spent so many years,
wasted them, destroyed them totally."
You won't find a new country, won't find another shore.
This city will always pursue you.
You'll walk the same streets, grow old
in the same neighbourhoods,
turn grey in these same houses.
You'll always end up in this city.
Don't hope for things elsewhere:
there's no ship for you, there's no road.
Now that you've wasted your life here,
in this small corner,
you've destroyed it everywhere in the world.
Friday, October 2, 2009
It’s hard to describe travel in retrospect, the view, narration is usually very generalized, poorer with many missing details. However I still owe you the travel report from Crimea and after all I am going to fulfill this duty.
Now when I think – Crimea – I see shrimps, Tatar markets and points-places on the map which I haven’t seen. We decided to go to Ukraine in the end of the season – when on one hand prizes are much lower and the cities and towns are not that crowded as in July, but on the other hand the weather is still excellent and you can easily find cheap accommodation. We left Wroclaw in group of 8 people just for 10 days. Well, yes double mistake – the group was too big what caused delays in every day’s plans while the time we could spend on Ukraine was really too short. But let’s put things in order…
Coming to Crimea
We have picked one of the cheapest, but at the same time quite tiring way. Traditionally we crossed the border on foot and came to Lviv by bus. Though the actual journey was just going to begin. For next 25 hours our the only mean of transport was going to be 20-wagons long train. For some, just travelling by this monster could be an adventure, but really with every passing hour I felt more intense fatigue. Fortunately Ukrain
ian big wigs decided that all the long-distance trains have to offer passengers sleeping places, what we providently noticed. By the way every time when planning to use Ukrainian railway – book the tickets in advance. You may need very big luck if you will get ticket on the day of the departure. There are three kinds of tickets – Lux (the most expensive – compartment with 2 beds); Kupe (also closeable compartment but with 4 beds) and the last one, the cheapest and the most popular – Platzkarta – open wagon with beds all along. The price difference between kupe and platzkarta is not that significant for travelers from West, so if you prefer comfortable conditions – don’t hesitate to pick this one, however going with platzkarta guarantees some adventure – caused at least by your co-passengers.
The train is crossing thousands on kilometres, hence on every bigger station, stop takes 10-30 minutes, while you can purchase some food and drinks from “babushkas” – ladies selling their homemade dumplings, pancakes and fruits. However, as Andrej – one of my train-friends – warned, you should be careful with buying caviar, which quality thrills even Ukrainians.
One-way train trip from Lviv to Simferopol costs about 17 Euros (200 Ukrainian Hrywnias), you can find and book them at this website: http://www.e-kvytok.com.ua/wps/portal
Train tickets are also offered by various middlemen, however their commission very often is 2-3 times higher than actual price of the ticket. We did such a mistake and let someone to earn for nice weekend.
Alternatively, you can fly to Kiev and from there to Simferopol – such a connection is held by WizzAir!, but then you have to mind the luggage limits.
People and Language
Before I managed to lift all my luggage at the station, I could hear very characteristic for Simferopol sentence… “Taxi, marshrouta, 5 dolarow” – that was just a beginning of a big trade, which was waiting for us when left platforms. Hundreds of drivers, hunting for tourists were deaf for our refusals. Apparently you can’t politely refuse, only flat “Niet” let us calmly go to trolley. You can always make use of that transport, but to not to overpay you have to negotiate in Russian, what put us on the lost position. Eventually we paid 8 UAH=$ 1 and after 80 minutes came to Alushta. Here comes a time to explain one thing – for all of us it was the first visit on the Peninsula. With regard to the short time, which we were going to spend there, after few discusses, the decision to visit just the western part of Crimea and to get accommodation in Alushta was made-up. That was caused by influence of my friends who used to visit that part of Ukraine and always easily found place to sleep. And actually that was the only advantage of the resort. After 5 minutes of listening and “discussing” with over shouting each other people, my pick went to Vladimir, who offered us quite good conditions for 5 dollars per person daily. He came across as making the deal of his life, but honestly speaking we didn’t get down neither. As we landed up in our new home, Vladimir took us for a short trip around the town. It seems that few Russian sentence which I managed to stammer, let him feel that I know the language quite well, therefore more and more intense, he was showing me and explaining things which we could do in Alushta. I was trying to jot down the most frequent words and find their meaning out, but eventually I had to rely on my intuition and just nod while our guide was saying millions words per minute.
There is almost no chance to have a really good trim on Crimea without knowledge of Russian or Ukrainian language. Honestly, I am not able to take them apart. As Pole, somehow I could guess the meaning of some words, however without knowledge of their alphabet and few basic sentences, which I learned last year on Rhodes, I wouldn’t be able to get answers for the most important things. During this short period I learned Russian at least triple more than I knew so far, but I must confess, that at least half of my sentences were invented as mix of Czech, Polish and Russian. Fortunately Ukrainians, who we met, were tolerant enough to not to laugh at my tries.
Alushta and Yalta
I put these two cities together, because of their similarity. Yalta as the bigger one, stays for one of the biggest harbours at Peninsula, has more interesting history and seems to be more attractive. However both – Yalta and Alushta are just the resorts, which apart from a good accommodation background, developed transportation and various restaurants and bars, does not have any advantages. Really, first association which comes to my mind when I think about them is a view of ugly, post-communistic blocks-of-flats districts and concrete beaches.
However these towns are the most often chosen by Russian visitors. Perhaps it happens because of sentiment to the places, which 20 years ago were absolutely glamorous in Eastern Block of Europe, but the other reason can be very silly. For mid-rich Russians, Crimea and especially Yalta, are the places where they can show off “their superiority” over poorer Ukrainians. Notwithstanding almost every trip which we took, was in fact starting in Yalta. The bus station –Awtowagzal – had connections to probably all the cities and towns on Crimea. By the way, every time when you travel by public means of transport, people around will be trying to reduce you to silence. And to be clear – we were having just normal conversations without raising voice, no... if you want to travel by buses, you have to shut up. However, the extremely loud radios played by the drivers don’t disturb anyone. Drivers calling us “Rybjata”, were trying to encourage us to participate in one of many excursions. But with guidebooks in hands we were trying to figure this place out on our own...
Alupka, Swallow’s Nest, Livadia and Utes
Towns, villages where the last Imperator of Russia – Tsar Nikolai II and prince Worontsow – set down the most beautiful palaces in this part of Peninsula. The most impressive is to take a boat trip from Alupka to Yalta and get out on the following stops.
Worontsow’s palace – is a pearl of an architecture in small town – Alupka. When you look at this from the land’s side, you can’t resist an impression, that you have already seen somewhere that building. It is very similar to the castles which you can find in the UK, and the similarity comes out of the British architect, who designed both – castle and beautiful gardens in the middle of 19th century. However, when You go around the palace and look at this from the marine’s point of view, the style changes absolutely. Orient elements and a beautiful terrace proves that Crimea was under influence of various cultures and nations.
Going further, you can see so-called “Swallow’s Nest “ – a tiny decorative castle, hanging on the top of Aurora cliff. The castle itself hosts nowadays a restaurant and to be honest, is not worth to get off the boat.
Palace of Livadia – the biggest attraction of the southern-west shore of Peninsula. The favourite summer place of Imperator Nikolai II, is more famous because of the Conference, which in 1945 significantly contributed to finish the 2nd World War. Exactly there, Josef Stalin convinced Churchill and Roosvelt to give my country under the “Soviet Care”, hence I have very subjective relation to that place. Anyhow, the palace is really worth seeing. In over hundred rooms are presented not only the facts of the Conference, but also personal things of the last Imperator of Russia and very interesting exhibition of pictures taken in the beginning of 20th century. Definitely number one among the castles in that region.
Utes – small village on the way from Alushta to Yalta, famous for the castle, which nowadays is hosting a sanatorium. Not worth visiting.
Aj-Petri
When you look at Worontsow’s palace in Alupka, the absolute supplement of landscape is done by one of the highest mountains in the region – Aj-Petri. There are two basic ways to get there – and both makes interesting impressions. First of them is to travel by an old, post-soviet funicular railway, which with every meter crossed up, seem to shake harder and let you feel that perhaps its one of the eternal rides of the wagon. But the wagons are going like this for 30 years and everything seems, that they won’t stop working for the next 30 years. The other way is to take a bus, which with speed of rally cars are covering kilometres of curvy roads, which structure was similar to Swiss cheese. Every time, when the driver was speeding up, I felt my stomach coming up to my throat. You have to be either drank or sick with ADHD to enjoy such a journey.
Just by the top of the mountain hundreds of Tatar’s tents covered all the area.
-“Wines, meat, hats, ovine jackets, water pipes, everything for you, mister!”
-“Where are you from? Oh Poland! I was in Cracow! Beautiful city, beautiful women! Do you have wife? Wait a second, I will bring something special! Just 5 dollars! Very cheap, you won’t find that anywhere! “
-“Are you hungry? Come with me! We have the best food here! Wine! Try this Wine! Wine for real man!...”
Eventually we managed to get to the entrance where started the climbing path and got to the top. Majestic view! Standing at the height of 1200 meters you can command a view hundreds of kilometres covered by Black Sea. The line on the horizon was invisible... sea seemed to turn to the sky, while sky was diving into the sea. One of the ends of the continent. Somewhere there, over hundreds of miles was already the Turkish shore, Asia. Below us, the forests were spread out. Forests, which were imperceptible from the buses, now were dominating on the Peninsula. Going to the top of Aj-Petri showed me, how many things I have to see, and how very few I have already visited. But I was conscious, that it’s impossible to be done this time.
Sevastopol
All-day trip done to Sevastopol was one of the last ones, done with whole group. Soon I and my brother were going to Odessa and then just two to Poland. But about this with the next point.
Entering Sevastopol, I had an impression that I am entering completely different part of Crimea. Red stars visible almost at every square, thousands of marines and cadets on the streets and in bars and finally luxurious cars with Russian numberplates disillusioned me about this who was who in that city. Sevastopol was probably the most “ordered” city from all which we have seen on Crimea. The town-planning wasn’t that chaotic as in Yalta or Alushta, but still I could easily notice various styles in the town. What is really worth visiting, places around the bay – cementary of boats and submarines, but also an oceanarium and museums are just by the shore. Very important, but impossible for us to visit place, is located out of the city – Chersonesos Tauricia – an ancient town, with ruins of Greek buildings still doesn’t let me fall asleep calmly. :)
Odessa
Odessa was an obligatory point on my route’s map. Not only because of the beauty and fame of the city, but also because of visiting my egec-groupmate, ex-flatmate Aleksei. We spent together 9 months on studies and for all this time he didn’t let us to not know how beautiful and great Odessa is. We were looking at his stories light-hearted, but the life verified stories. In my opinion, Odessa is the most beautiful Ukrainian city. I haven’t been to Kiev yet, but capital is always a capital... and has bad influences.
Odessa seems to be... not Ukrainian. It is a very cosmopolite city, with great influences of various cultures, however strongly bonded to Ukrainian heritage. Sometimes You can have an impression, that you are in one of the Western metropolises. Aleksei, who was an excellent guide, showed us almost all the most important places in the city, including famous Potiomkins stairs, Mosques and Orthodox churches, Opera house, Passages, parks, uff hard to describe everything. Let it be a proof of Odessa’s glamour, that almost half of all the pictures, I’ve taken during Crimean trip, was done in that city. And one of interesting things is, that in Odessa, on the 9th day of my trip, finally I found a sand-beach.
Crimea charmed and disappointed me. Thousands of kilometres, thousands of people, smiles and pouts, majestic and ugly views. That all stands for Crimea which I have seen. Crimea smells with Tatarian spices and tastes with sweet red wine, but also stays for wild, unknown Eastern part, which just calls me to come.
Friday, August 28, 2009
You can ask - why Sweden? Before departure the answer was just one. We found very cheap flights to Stockholm. But actually there was always something encouraging to come. The reason has blond hair, cute appearance and big, beautiful... eyes ;) Yes Swedish girls are magnetic and probably that's why Sweden attracted two young boys made from iron(y), who later we call Rys and Filip.
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Finding place to sleep in Stockholm would be very easy, but it doesn't work with us. Unluckily some minor band, called Coldplay decided to perform on that weekend in Swedish capital and all the hostels were pre-booked with 4 weeks notice. That's why we decided to find Hostel in Uppsala. Yes, there was an option to sleep under some bridge, but that was already taken by Coldplay fans. But let me grab things together.
Stockholm
You need 1-2 days to see everything important in that city. All the most important objects are located on the islands, but one really impressed us and I think both of us can sign under this statement. The most worth seen place in Stockholm is Vasamuseet. I am almost sure that for Swedes that is kind of gift from the sky, or rather in this case from the sea. What am I talking about? Actually about the old, wooden proof of Swedish rubbish engineering. In 1961, Swedes salvaged the biggest warship in the history of Vasa dynasty, which sank on her maiden voyage in 1628. Chapeau bas! for Swedes for reconstructing and care of that warship, which can impress everyone indeed. But shame on them that they didn't succeed in 17th century, I am almost sure that then they would succeed in war with Poland and today you would be reading the Sigbjörn's routes.
The best way of sight-seeing is to take one of the cruise boats and go for a daily trip. Don't be surprised if suddenly you will discover that you have seen everything. Instead of complaining simply get off on one of the islands and really chill out. With piece of good weather Stockholm's panorama is really adorable.
Oh, you are not a "resting-type" of traveler? Nothing lost! Swedes neither, almost near the every significant monument you can rent a bike and bless the one who decided to create the net of bike routes. By the way, there are also several jogging paths,which in Swedish form(s) are very attractive. At a pinch you can go for Swedish approach and wait for gifts from the nature.
Uppsala
Some say, that there was the oldest University in Sweden. I won't argue about that, nevertheless the first view which comes when I think - Uppsala, are thousands of bicycles parked just by the train station. Actually hard to generalise, perhaps part of them was left by workers commuting by train to the capital, some left by students... every bike finds its place not only in legal place, as my friend said - last spring few of them were gotten out from the river. We have chosen Uppsala for a place to sleep and actually that word - sleeping - really can express how the life looks in that town. And although we came to Sweden in the mid of August and students should be coming back to campus, the streets were empty. Anyhow we had a chance to taste the Swedish way of education. For 4 years now, my old friend from Wroclaw lives in Uppsala and gains next grades at local university and eventually he will become a rector, I believe. "A" took us for short trip in Uppsala, showing the town from the local point of view and what's the most important he gave us few very useful tips about life in this country. For example about the Systembolaget - Swedish approach of limiting alcohol purchases by underaged. And since we are about alcohol, there is something, I have to show you...
Lulea (North Pole Circle approach)
Now comes the time to explain why I've chosen such a title. My trip-mate, had the only one dream to realise in Sweden. And no, nothing with these sexy blondes. He made clear statement - unless we eat steaks from reindeer meat, we wouldn't leave Sweden. No deers in Uppsala, neither free-running in Stockholm, we could just try to attack the North Pole Circle. The Night train with company of Hungarians brought us to the most northern town of Sweden - Lulea.
The appetite was even bigger, because Lulea was the first place, where I was willing to go for ERASMUS. God bless the day when I got to know about the EGEC. Lulea doesn't exist in the end of summer indeed. Even the inhabitants hide in their nests and don't go out before 12. To be honest we had big hopes related to this place. But none of them turned to reality. Neither boat cruise among the islands, nor hunting on mooses and reindeers can be classified as accomplished. But at least, thanks to really kind, friendly and very helpful people we found the way to Gammelstad, an old village which stands for one of few Swedish World Heritage UNESCO monuments.
Was it worth to cross all the country? Yes, for great experience to not to do this again... at least not in that season. However Filip can count trip to successful ones, only because in the city centre he found the love of his life... Even though she was so drank, that in next two hours she couldn't remember that meeting, my mate can feel satisfied :)
To be clear, I am very glad that we made this trip to Sweden. Stockholm, but also the countryside and smaller towns charmed me by their beauty and openness. People living there were very friendly. Sweden turns out to be exactly how I imagined that before. I agree this point of view can be a bit curved by weather, which was just great for all the stay. Might be that staying there longer, living there I would look at all the country and people in other colours. But it won't happen, Bahamas are waiting! ;)
TACK SJÄLV! Filip, Adam, Sweden, Swedes and Reindeers! :)
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Monday, July 20, 2009
Going around Poland, in 3 days is an extraordinary, fabulous, astonishing piece of... crap. Yes, yes I admit that. If you have 3-days weekend and you want to spend it off, don't follow my route this time. I mean it is extremely boring. And if some of you would think "didn't I say that?", my answer is: "you don't have a bloody idea what does it mean boring". You have to try it on your own to get to know that it is one of the most boring countries I've ever been. And although some people at my house, which apparently are called my family, say that I am spreading defetism, I won't change my mind. Going around Poland in 3 days is useless.
For those who are not familliar with geography of Europe I must explain something about the country where I was born. It covers area more less simillar to Spain and is extremely... flat. Whoa! And what about famous "Polish Alps"? I didn't see any. The train to Zakopane crosses 140 km in 4 hours! It means that I would have to spend whole day to go there, eat their stinky cheese and come back to Cracow, because further on South is just the Slovan country of KIA.
This trip was supposed to take place to show you the real, unknown face of Poland. But I have to be honest - if You want to travel around Poland - ok, go. But if you would like to have fun at the same time, then just go to certain places. That is why I created a list of activities to do. And if You want to:
Have fun...
Go to Wroclaw!
Have more fun...
Go to Wroclaw!
Have a great time...
Go to WROCLAW!
All right there are some other places worth to see in Poland and if You really have nothing to do on summer, just go around them.
Cracow
The perfect city for the morning activities. Wherever you go, the coffee and cracknels (called Obwarzanki) taste the same. What's interesting, Cracow, which for ages has been counted as the biggest city of intellectuals in this part of Europe is the most posh city at the same time. And it appears in quite odd way. The snobbery stands for... being from Cracow. And if you are wearing loosefitting cardigan or sweater, glasses in thick frames, carry books or suitcase infraaxillary and edgily look for cigarettes then defenitely, at least your great-great grandmother had to have romance with some soldier from that city.
However Cracow seems to be great place to live and apart from Wroclaw and Trojmiasto (which I will go further), that is the only one city where you can really party till the break of day and safely go back home. But to not pay the price of being too Cracovian, be careful with showing your likeness to the local football clubs - it's easy to get "injured" if You show off the "colours" of a wrong team.
Lublin
Next on my route was Lublin. But to get there I had to take bus and range the most boring region of whole country. Honestly, I know just one so unattractive place in Europe. They call it Lithuania. You are crossing hundreds of kilometeres and see just fields or forrests... unbelievable sight! Lublin itself is very neglected therby colourful. Entering the Old Town You can quickly notice big heritage and the international influences which keep going also today. Surprisingly, I found the town quite charming. But it was not enough to keep me there for longer. Hence Lublin is not worth going there, unless you are a farmer, admiring the scenery of corn-fields.
Warsaw
Some say, that Warsaw is tolerable only by night, because then you can hardly see its ugliness. Tolerable is too big word actually, anyhow at least by night it is not that much eyecatching. I met in Warsaw with Cajbel, who became my guide in this "most-western Asian city". I am sorry , but I won't surprise you, in my words you will not find anything new. The capital is literaly bumpkinly. There is no style and it seems, that people who come there (still it is hard to find real Warsaw-man) do everything just for show. The night life is concentrated around few clubs, which bring nothing new to the city's atmoshpere. And what is the worst, there is no hope for Warsaw, what makes the capital, unwated but compulsory stop during journeys across Poland.
Some say, that Warsaw is tolerable only by night, because then you can hardly see its ugliness. Tolerable is too big word actually, anyhow at least by night it is not that much eyecatching. I met in Warsaw with Cajbel, who became my guide in this "most-western Asian city". I am sorry , but I won't surprise you, in my words you will not find anything new. The capital is literaly bumpkinly. There is no style and it seems, that people who come there (still it is hard to find real Warsaw-man) do everything just for show. The night life is concentrated around few clubs, which bring nothing new to the city's atmoshpere. And what is the worst, there is no hope for Warsaw, what makes the capital, unwated but compulsory stop during journeys across Poland.
Toruń
The city well known as the place of life of Nicolas Copernicus (Mikołaj Kopernik), yes yes... he was Pole. And like this I could finish the description of that town. I went there because I thought I would get some inspiration, as the famous astronomist got, but nothing. The Earth will be still going around Sun and nothing seems to be changed in this matter. At least I didn't discover anything yet. However Torun - rich with very "German" Old Town is famous with one more hero. The controversial priest, who has built there his own media centre - radio, press, tv with mobile network ending (so far) - can be proud with 4 mln audience. What is not that noticable on the streets.
Trójmiasto (Tri-city)
Gdańsk
There are 3 cities in Poland, where I could live. Wroclaw, Cracow and Gdansk. And it is not only because they are beautiful, you just feel that in these cities, you will feel like at home. And they all are living cities, although with Gdansk things look a bit different. Crowds of tourists, millions of ambers and dozens of artists performing on the streets. That is the Old Town. Streets coming from the harbour to the main Street "Dlugi Targ" seem to look as hundreds years ago. And as few centuries in the past, they are very international. I think, the proportions of foreign and domestic tourists are equal. But what does it mean domestic in the city which for some time has been a separate republic? Gdansk is very special. Not by accident, in this city communism has been - the first time in Europe - overthrown and also before - here started the 2nd World War. Germans knew very well, where to hit, to knock Poland cold. But coming back to kem, wrong is the person, who thinks, that as in Wroclaw or Cracow, Gdansk has its nightlife. Pubs are open till late, but at 9-10 pm all the party life moves to Sopot. 
Sopot
The favourite town of Adolf Hitler, efervesces in Summer. All the hotels, apartments and private rooms are booked with 3 months of notice. Not only because of the beautiful beach and monumental mole (where by the way everyone is flirting with newly met "summer loves", and whereabout many people have began their prenatal lives), but mainly by reason of 3 big festivals taking place in the Forest Opera. In the past there was just one - international pop music festival. Nowadays all the big tv-networks decided to have their very own and very one of kind festivals. And as result every year, the same artists performs the same songs in front of the same audience, three times during summer and as you can conclude, it must be very exceptional experience. There is however very one and very special event taking place in Tricity on Summer. It's called Heineken Open'er Festival and by many people from all the world it is higher rated than Glastonbury.
To not to bore with praises to Tri-city just one last notice. In that region lives minority of Kaszubians. It's widely spread among Pomeranian Voivodeship and interestingly, quite popular. To Kaszubian origins claim among the others - Polish Prime Minister - Donald Tusk, or Nobel-prize winning German - Gunter Grass.
Szczecin
Unfortunatelly I came to Szczecin one week after the Tall Ship Races event. City changes then unrecognizable. But everyday's Szczecin, although a harbour, seems to be very quiet and polite. Again I must use this term - the city is very "German". I got to know Szczecin from academic point of view. Surprisingly many intellectuals from wide range of science settled there down and perhaps that is the main reason, why Szczecin is hosting the best high school in whole country. To not to get bored with noisy city, I reccomend to go for a cruise to the most Northern-West town in Poland - Swinoujscie where apart from the beach, you can see the dead U-boots basin.
Sleeps in the night. Nothing to tell. During the day festivals, concerts, etc. But time was running, hence I couldn't enjoy.
But to not to throw down your arms, there is a solution for a summer trip in Poland. Just get to Cracow, take the soonest bus to Zakopane, enjoy the majestic sight of Polish mountains and crowds on the routes. Next, when you get bored with sheep's cheese (thank's God there is the E.U., which told shephards the proper way of doing that, while for ages their fore fathers were apparently producing Oscypki badly...) take the "cinema train" to Sopot, watch for the upteenth time Juno and go to the seaside, where Polish youth won't let you fall asleep easily.
Mazury
The other solution can be Mazurian Lake region - this time I skipped it on purpose, because honestly crossing that region I wouldn't be able to hurry. You can not just pass by Mazury. This is one of the very few regions in Europe, where you can chill out. I am going to write about Mazury an individual article, so be patient.
The other solution can be Mazurian Lake region - this time I skipped it on purpose, because honestly crossing that region I wouldn't be able to hurry. You can not just pass by Mazury. This is one of the very few regions in Europe, where you can chill out. I am going to write about Mazury an individual article, so be patient.
An in the very end one more notice - in Poland there are really working mobile sweat boxes! They call them public transport and let you feel massive discomfort when it's summer. And to be clear. It's not a complain, it's an observation.
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